Glycolic Acid Skin Care Benefits:
All You Need to Know

Moisturizer

Apply moisturizer after your glycolic acid product. Remember to always apply moisturizer twice a day (morning and evening) to protect and hydrate your newly exfoliated skin. Keeping your skin hydrated will also prevent any potential redness or irritation from your glycolic acid product. Again, slight redness and irritation is completely normal and should go away after consistent use.

Sunscreen

This is critical. The FDA recommends applying sunscreen glycolic acid treated skin. Glycolic acid (like all alpha hydroxy acids) exfoliates dead skin and uncovers fresh skin, but this new baby skin is extra sensitive to UV rays and more susceptible to sun damage. So apply sunscreen daily. ALWAYS. Period.

We’ve put together a GHS curated selection of our favorite skin care products that contain glycolic acid for anti-aging, brightening, dryness, hyperpigmentation, acne, and fine lines and wrinkles. We only link to products that we absolutely believe in. All the products we’ve chosen are paraben-free, sulfate-free, and phthalate-free. Remember - results won’t happen overnight. It can take 4-6 consistent glycolic acid exfoliations or chemical peels before you begin to see improvements, so stay consistent with your product usage.

Safety Tips

Glycolic acid is FDA approved followed by the use of sunscreen, and it’s safe for topical use in concentrations of up to 10% in at-home products and up to 70% with in-office application only by a licensed esthetician, dermatologist, or health care professional.

SIDE EFFECTS OF GLYCOLIC ACID SKIN PRODUCTS:

• Tingling, redness or irritation
• Dryness, itching, or peeling
• Flaking/”frosting”
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (sometimes)
• Purging (worsening of acne) within first few weeks

FAQs about Glycolic Acid

Q. What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a skin care ingredient that is both an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and humectant and is widely used for anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, dryness, and acne. Considered the golden standard of AHAs, glycolic acid is a keratolytic meaning it exfoliates dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. This exfoliation reduces existing fine lines and wrinkles, fades hyperpigmentation, and clears acne. Glycolic acid is also a humectant meaning it chemically attracts water molecules to itself. Glycolic acid draws moisture to your newly exfoliated skin which, when used correctly, not only hydrates dry skin, but also prevents new fine lines and wrinkles. Glycolic acid also increases the penetration of other skin care ingredients making your other skin care products stronger. Glycolic acid is a strong skin care ingredient that takes some getting used to. Light stinging, redness, and burning is completely normal until your skin is conditioned to glycolic acid. Because glycolic acid makes skin more sensitive to UV rays, only use glyoclic acid products at night and always apply sunscreen the next day. If you have sensitive skin, a gentler alternative is lactic acid. Overall, glycolic acid is considered the golden standard of AHAs, and fun fact, it's dervied from sugar cane. Use glycolic acid to take you skin care routine to the next level.

Q. What is glycolic acid used for in skin care?

Glycolic acid is used to treat the following skin concerns:

• Acne
• Anti-Aging
• Brightening
• Dryness
• Fine Lines and Wrinkles
• Hyperpigmentation

Q. How does glycolic acid benefit my skin?

The top 8 glycolic acid skin benefits are:

• Strongest AHA due to its small molecule size
• Exfoliates dead skin cells
• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
• Fades hyperpigmentation
• Brightens and smooths complexion
• Fights acne
• Hydrates dry skin
• Increases penetration of other ingredients

Q. What skin types is glycolic acid good for?

Glycolic acid is best for dry, oily, combination, and normal skin types. If you have sensitive skin, try lactic acid.

Q. Is glycolic acid safe for my skin?

Glycolic acid is safe for topical use in concentrations of up to 10% in OTC at-home products and up to 70% when applied in-office by a licensed esthetician, dermatologist, or health care professional.skin care products.

Q. What are common side effects from applying glycolic acid topically?

Tingling, redness, itching, purging (worsening of acne), and other forms of slight irritation are common side effects from applying glycolic acid topically. After a few weeks, your skin should get used to glycolic acid, and these reactions should be gentler or go away all together. Make sure to apply a high quality moisturizer on top of your glycolic acid product. If you experience severe dryness, peeling, flaking or "frosting", or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, consider trying another glycolic acid product or a different skin care ingredient. If you're unsure, consult your esthetician or dermatologist. Always be sure to do a patch test on your skin before applying a new product to your entire face.

Q. How long does glycolic acid take to work topically?

It can take 4-6 consistent applications of an at-home glycolic acid product or professional chemical peels over the course of 1 to 2 months before you begin to see visible improvements. You may see positive signs earlier, but remember consistency is key for maximum results. Results will not happen overnight.

Q. Is glycolic acid safe to use everyday?

Normally, no, it's not recommended to use glycolic acid products every day, but it depends on what type of glycolic acid product you're using. If you are using a rinse-off product, like a cleanser with glycolic acid, then every day use is okay. However, if you are using a leave-on product with glycolic acid (like a serum, gel, cream, mask, or peel) then you should only use it 1x-3x a week. Every day will be too harsh on your skin and can do more harm than good. FYI, remember to only use glycolic acid products (rinse-off or leave-on) at night only.

Q. Is tingling from glycolic acid normal?

Yes, glycolic acid can make your skin feel tingly or even a slightly irritated for a few minutes after application. This is completely normal, so don't panic. Slight tingling, stinging, or redness is normal, and you may feel this the first few times using glycolic acid until your skin gets used to this ingredient. However, if you have severe burning or itching, try another glycolic acid product with a lower concentration or another gentler AHA like lactic acid for the same desired effects.

Q. Are glycolic acid peels safe?

Yes, glycolic acid peels are very safe as long as you follow the directions. There are a variety of at-home glycolic acid peels you can use, but if you're looking for someting stronger, consult your licensed esthetician or dermatologist. But one word of caution: Depending on the strength of the treatment as well as your skin's reaction to glycolic acid, your face can be slightly red and your dead skin can peel for a few days after application. Basically, don’t get your first glycolic acid peel right before any weddings, job interviews, or photo-ops.

Q. How do glycolic acid peels work?

Glycolic acid peels dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. As the glycolic acid peel breaks down these bonds, thousands of dead skin cells can shed off your face (don't worry - it's invisible to the naked eye). The result? Vibrant, smoother skin. Glycolic acid peels reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, restore hydration, fade hyperpigmentation, and clear moderate acne. Think of it like a fresh slate of skin. Glycolic acid peels range in strength. If you're looking for something to start with and more mild, try an at-home glycolic acid peel or facial. If you're interested in something stronger or have questions on which glycolic acid treatment is right for your skin, consult your dermatologist or licensed esthetician.

Q. Can glycolic acid burn your skin?

When following the instructions, at-home glycolic acid products (concentrations of 20% or less) should not literally burn your skin (although a slight tingling and burning sensation is normal). On the other hand, strong glycolic acid peels (greater than 20% concentrate) that are applied professionally by a licensed esthetician or dermatologist can potentially burn your skin in a worst case scenario. We're reiterating that this is a worst case scenario, and when applied correctly, professional grade glycolic acid peels are safe. Additionally, if you happen to get a slight burn, it's normally a temporary reaction post peel. Regardless, if you're experiencing a severe adverse reaction to either an at-home glycolic acid product or a professional grade glycolic acid peel, consult your dermatologist or esthetician.

Q. Can glycolic acid lighten your skin?

No, glycolic acid is not a skin lightening (as in whitening) agent, so glycolic acid will not lighten or whiten your skin tone. Glycolic acid, however, does fade darks spots and hyperpigmentation making it a safe ingredient to brighten and even your complexion. Glycolic acid evens skin tone by exfoliating your skin’s surface and removing darker, melanin-stanined, dead skin cells. Glycolic acid exfolation reduces the appearance of acne scars, age-related spots, sun damage, and other forms of mild hyperpigmentation without whitening the skin. Think of glycolic acid like a skin care beauty blender — your same skin, but a little brighter, more even, and flawless.

Q. Can glycolic acid peels cause hyperpigmentation (aka dark spots)?

It depends. Low concentration glycolic acid products of 20% or less (products that are safe to use at home and OTC) should not cause any hyperpigmentation. On the other hand, strong, professional-grade glycolic acid peels with greater than 30% concentrations can potentially cause inflammation, and if certain areas of the skin becomes too inflamed, then hyperpigmentation can occur. Darker skin types are more prone to hyperpigmentation caused by inflammation. If you have Asian, Hispanic, or African American skin and want to try a professional-grade glycolic acid peel, then consult your dermatologist or esthetician. Ask about potential hyperpigmentation side effects of your chosen treatment. Honestly, regardless of your skin type or ethnicity, you should discuss all pros and cons of professional-grade glycolic acid peels (or any professional treatments for that matter) before making an educated decision on how to care for your precious skin.

In the event that you do get dark spots from a glycolic acid peel, give your skin a minimum of 2-3 weeks to heal. That means no harsh treatments or ingredients (i.e. no AHAs, BHAs, retinoids), no sunshine, and making sure to apply extra moisturizer and sunscreen. Normally, hyperpigmentation caused by a chemical peel should naturally cycle off your skin within a few months, but it's best to discuss with your dermatologist or esthetician.

Q. Can glycolic acid smooth deep fine lines and wrinkles?

No, glycolic acid cannot completely smooth or "fill" deep fine lines and wrinkles, but don't worry, not all hope is lost. While glycolic acid cannot totally erase deep fine lines and wrinkles, glycolic acid can reduce the appearance of existing fine lines and wrinkles and help prevent/slow down new fine lines and wrinkles from forming. Glycolic acid reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by deeply exfoliating the top layer of skin. The removal of dead skin cells flattens the skin's surface which makes deep fine lines and wrinkles appear more shallow and less noticeable. Glycolic acid exfoliation also accelerates skin cell renewal, promotes faster collagen production, and strengthens the skin's natural ability to retain hydration. Lucky for us, all of these exfoliation benefits prevent and delay new fine lines and wrinkles from developing. So while glycolic acid can't altogether remove deep fine lines and wrinkles, glycolic acid will make your deepest creases appear softer and stimulate your skin to renew itself to prevent new ones from forming.

Q. Does glycolic acid remove sun damage?

Yes, but there’s a catch. Glycolic acid combats sun damage by exfoliating the outer layer of skin (the skin with the most sun damage), but in this process, glycolic acid reveals freshly exfoliated skin that is more sensitive to the sun. So what does this mean? You can use glycolic acid to fade hyperpigmentation and reduce fine lines and wrinkles caused by sun damage, but you must protect your newly exfoliated skin after using glycolic acid--otherwise you may end up inviting even more sun damage than you started with. After using glycolic acid, apply a hydrating serum or gel (to hydrate your newly exfoliated skin) followed by a more occlusive moisturizer (to seal in all the moisture). Only use glycolic acid in your nighttime routine, and always apply sunscreen in the morning after glycolic acid treatment. We’re huge advocates of wearing sunscreen everyday, but it’s even more critical when you’re using glycolic acid.

Q. Does glycolic acid make your skin photosensitive (sun sensitive)?

Yes, glycolic acid makes your skin more sensitive to new sun damage. Because glycolic acid exfoliates dead skin off the skin’s surface, glycolic acid reveals freshly exfoliated skin, and freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to ultraviolet rays. In a study on the effects of topically applied glycolic acid, researchers found that people applying glycolic acid experienced increased sensitivity from ultraviolet radiation in the forms of skin redness, DNA damage, and sunburn cell formation in the skin. So while glycolic acid exfoliation helps treat existing sun damage (by fading dark spots, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, jumpstarting collagen production, and hydrating the skin), glycolic acid simultaneously increases your skin’s photosensitivity. If you decide to use a glycolic acid product (or any AHA products), make sure to only use at night, follow up with a hydrating serum and moisturizer, and always apply sunscreen in the morning.

Q. Can glycolic acid shrink pores?

No. Pore size is genetic and cannot be changed; however, pores appear bigger and expanded if they are clogged with dead skin cells or extra oil. So even though clean pores appear smaller, know that the actual size of your pores will not change - they will either be empty or full. Knowing this, be aware of any masks, astringents, or exfoliators that promise smaller pore size. These products are actually removing excess dead skin and oil (sebum) from the skin.

Q. Does glycolic acid cause purging?

Yes, glycolic acid can sometimes cause purging in acne prone skin. Glycolic acid exfoliates dead skin cells off the skin's surface, and as a part of this process, glycolic acid can open microcomedones (clogged pores from dead skin cells or excess oil and the precursors to all forms of acne) and in doing so, prevent those microcomedones from turning into full fledged acne and pimples. But sometimes, the first applications of glyocolic acid won't completely open existing microcomedones and purging can occur instead. Because glycolic acid speeds up your skin cell turnover rate, it can sometimes accelerate the development of microcomedones turning into acne and blemishes if the exfoliation doesn't open existing microcomedones. This can cause a sudden rush of acne, but surprisingly, this is not a bad thing (and no, we aren't joking). Those microcomedones may have turned into visible acne anyways, and the glycolic acid is just making them bubble up faster so they can be gone faster.

The only time you should be worried with purging of glyoclic acid or other ingredients that may cause purging is if you're breaking out in places you don’t normally break out or if your acne becomes inflamed. In this case, you should discontinue using the product because it’s irritating and inflaming your skin.

Q. How long does the “purge” time period last?

Purging from glycolic acid should only last for up to a month. If your skin isn’t getting better after 6-8 weeks of using the product, than ditch it. Consider trying another glycolic acid product with a lower concentration or a gentler lactic acid product for similar benefits. If you are struggling with acne, check out our Acne & Blemishes: Causes, Treatments, & Top Ingredients page. If you have specific questions, consult your esthetician or dermatologist.

Q. What is the difference between glycolic acid and lactic acid?

Glycolic acid and lactic acid are both AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) that provide very similar benefits, but glycolic acid is the stronger, more powerful exfoliant while lactic acid is the gentler exfoliant better suited for sensitive skin. Glycolic acid is a stronger AHA because it has a smaller molecule size. This smaller molecule size allows for deeper penetration into the skin and thus deeper exfoliation. Since glycolic acid is so strong, it's a choice ingredient for advanced skin care queens wanting more intense treatments. On the other hand, lactic acid has a larger molecule size meaning it cannot sink as deep into the skin. If you're getting started with AHA exfoliation, lactic acid is a great introductory AHA ingredient since it's the gentlest on the skin. Lactic acid is also the most hydrating AHA, making it a great option for babes with dry or sensitive skin.

Q. What is the difference between glycolic acid and salicylic acid?

Both salicylic acid and AHAs like glycolic acid are chemical exfoliants that fight acne and promote faster cell turnover. However, the way they exfoliate and treat your skin is different.

Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) meaning it's oil-soluble. This means salicylic acid can get underneath and around the oil that sits in your pores to exfoliate dead skin deep within your pores. Because salicylic acid exfoliates deep into pores, it's a preferred ingredient to treat existing acne if you have oily skin. Salicylic acid is also a comedolytic meaning it prevents future whiteheads and blackheads from developing.

On the other hand, glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), meaning it is water-soluble. Since oil and water don't mix, AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid cannot get under the oil in your pores and will only exfoliate the surface of your skin, not the dead skin underneath any oil buildup deep inside your pores. That doesn't mean glycolic acid isn’t an amazing acne-fighting exfoliant--glycolic acid is a keratolytic meaning it has the ability to break apart dead skin cells on the skin's surface and open any clogged pores. Opening clogged pores delivers oxygen to the pores which helps kill acne bacteria. The key difference is salicylic acid specifically removes excess oil from pores and reduces future oil production while glycolic acid focuses on unclogging the surface of pores.

Another key difference between glycolic acid and salicylic acid is that glycolic acid is more of a multi-purpose anti-aging ingredient. Glycolic acid not only combats acne, but also fades hyperpigmentation, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrates the skin. Salicylic acid is predominantly used as an acne fighting ingredient (although its anti-inflammatory properties also help calm psoriasis). Every skin type can benefit from AHAs whereas salicylic acid is best used for acne prone skin only.

Q. Should I use both an AHA and BHA product to get the best results?

No, it is not recommended to use an AHA product and a BHA product at the same time. Since AHAs (like glycolic acid or lactic acid) are low pH exfoliants, combining an AHA with a BHA (another low pH exfoliant) can harmfully over exfoliate your skin leading to severe skin irritation: redness, dryness, flakiness, peeling, stinging, & burning. Nothing good. If you’re an overachiever and want to use both AHAs and benzoyl peroxide in your skin care regimen, you can test using a BHA in the morning (like a salicylic cleanser) and an AHA at night (like a glycolic acid serum), BUT proceed with caution. We can't overemphasize enough that you do not want to over exfoliate your skin (besides the discomfort, this can also lead to the premature development of fine lines and wrinkles). If you're considering using both ingredients at the same time, it's best to consult your dermatologist or esthetician.

Q. Can glycolic acid be used with retinol?

No, we do not recommend using glycolic acid with retinol. Both glycolic acid and retinol are low pH ingredients that exfoliate the skin. Using multiple low pH products at the same time can over exfoliate and damage the skin's barrier function. Not only is this painful, but also leads to premature development of new fine lines and wrinkles. Some people may think to split up the ingredients between their a.m. and p.m. routines (for example, use glycolic acid in the morning and retinol in the evening or vice versa), but think again. Because both glycolic acid and retinol make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, neither ingredient is suitable for your morning routine. This leaves you with nightime application only, but both ingredients shouldn't be used at the same time. If you have further questions or concerns, consult your dermatologist or esthetician.

Q. Do glycolic acid skin care products expire?

Yes. Look for the expiration date or a POA (prescribed period after opening) which tells you how long the product is good after it’s been opened. When in doubt, toss it out - the following are signs that your product has expired:

• The product has changed color or texture
• There is a strange scent coming from the product
• If you have swipe on pads, they will begin to dry out
• If you have peels or masks, they will begin to feel more irritating on your skin

If your glycolic acid product has expired, do not use it - expired products can cause skin irritation, bacterial infection, or breakouts.

Q. What are common names used to identify glycolic acid on an ingredient list for skin care products?

• Glycolic Acid

Salts of glycolic acid also used in skin care products:

• Ammonium Glycolate
• Sodium Glycolate

Q. Can glycolic acid treat flat facial warts caused by HPV?

Yes, glycolic acid has been studied to clear flat facial warts caused by HPV when used in combination with salicylic acid. In a study of a new therapy for facial flat warts using 15% glycolic acid plus 2% salicylic acid, all the patients were clinically cured within eight weeks with no noticeable adverse effects to the skin. If you have HPV and are experiencing facial warts, consult your dermatologist for the proper treatment.

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